Bouldering 2025-03-12

Focus on not bending the elbow.

With a grade 8, I'd have to bend my elbow to clear it.

Then how to make room for footwork? Then the question becomes

https://gyazo.com/a81edb67c059273c21f855f4c34be838

Hips away from the wall with flexion of the spine (1), then raise the legs (2), then extend the spine (3), then go up with the feet pinched (4).

I see, I don't use my biceps.

At this point, your elbow might bend temporarily, but that's okay because your weight is escaping to your feet.

Two-point or one-point support is more flexible than three-point support.

I tend to leave both feet where they are.

It's easy to forget, especially if you float one foot and put it on the wall.

But it's hard to tie up unbending all the time.

https://gyazo.com/61a28f0f2aec3a49b7b8b1791c0ea3d0

Easy forward leaning wall? If it's a wall with an easy front slope, there's a pattern where you bend your arms and don't put any force on it, just your legs to support it.

[Overhangs make that physically impossible.

What is the synonym for overhang?

Overhang, the only grade 7 I was able to clear, I can't clear if I do it this way.

The overhangs are shallow, so there's probably a phase where you can huddle up and let it flow down your leg.

I was able to clear it!

https://gyazo.com/e612b6412fd0e19efe99236472a3ac49

It looks like you'll need to use your shoulders to draw them in while your arms are still extended, or be on one hand and one foot to gain distance.

I see, you have a hand that twists at the waist to get closer to the wall while keeping your hand extended (I was watching the others move).

https://gyazo.com/2cb404dc2bafd2eb8b3de8d7e40bf088

When I wrote this, I was talking about twisting your body to get the hold with your hands, but there's another pattern where you put more weight on your feet when your wall-side foot is bent.

Rotation brings the shoulder closer to the wall, thereby increasing the distance between the shoulder and the hold.

Arms grow from the shoulders, so there's more room for distance.

Turn around and put your bent leg on the wall side.

Before rotating, the body is projecting in the direction away from the wall, so traction with the arms is essential to maintain posture

The closer you get to the wall, the smaller the moment to peel off from the wall.

If you can bring the center of gravity of your body over the foot on the wall side with little arm strength, you can lift the center of gravity with the power of your feet by extending that foot

Basically, the style of reaching out gives you room to observe your feet.

If you have a style where you fold your hands and put all your weight on the foot holds, if you move away from the wall, the load is on your bent arms, so you're forced to stick to the wall and can't see your feet.

I preserved my forearms and my grip died first😇.

I'm playing the game of climbing a grade 8 slab with no grip.

Oh? I don't know if it's because I'm saving my forearms, but it's been quite a while.

He's climbing the same slab, grade 8, over and over.

Fingertip-less binding

If you can't use your fingertips, the style of towing with outstretched arms itself is sealed.

Still, the 8th level hold is gentle enough to use with a hand or arm or something.

The action of extending your arm to a distant hold and hooking your fingers and pulling is basically sealed, so the emphasis is on the feet.

You could use a wall or something to shift the center of gravity right above the bent leg and lift it up.

It is less painful because you don't use your weak arm muscles, but you use your big leg muscles, so your body feels warmer.

It's already 6:00 p.m., so we should each climb one last time and then go home.

First, by contracting the biceps and trying to support the body, that's where the bottleneck was.

Next, learning a posture that preserves biceps has bottlenecked grip strength (forearms).

I did the climb challenge without using my fingers to get rid of it, and my glutes were sore.

but this is a large muscle, so it didn't feel like a bottleneck that made it impossible to climb.

I could have climbed higher, but it was late, so I left.

Examine the posture (hand shape) that preserves grip strength.

The direction of the force that can be applied depends on the shape of the hold.

Hole-shaped hold that cannot be pulled to the front

Holds that can be pulled up (under) with a lower hand.

I couldn't hold it, so it falls off."

Too much attention is paid to getting a hold, but it is important to be able to support the process of postural shift to get a hold.

Argument that forearm problems are caused by trying to control posture with the hands and by gripping the hold too tightly.

This time I was unknowingly "training to climb without gripping the holds.

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